Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

Kombi Chenin, and a rare Big Sushi sighting

I had been in South Africa for about 3 weeks, between the night classes at the University of Stomme Jonge, the faithful morning company of Babalas, my new friend Carlo, and all the staff at The Eendracht covering for me in hopes of avoiding more trouble with Wilmi,  the boss-lady, I was feeling like a local.

Trying my best to fit in, my daily work attire had become kortbroeks & plakkies (short pants & flip-flops).   That said, I kept my favorite hat, socks, and suspenders close by, neatly folded in the cupboard at The Eendracht. 

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

kortbroeks & plakkies (short pants & flip-flops).

I was spending a lot of time with Kevin & Judy and Kim & Greg, usually in one of their kombi’s as they were insistent on showing me their country, and my experiencing its people and cultures.  They were “Proudly South African” far before that marketing line even came into existence.

This Saturday morning was no different.

They fetched me early and lucky for me Babalas had stayed away.  I climbed into Kevin’s & Judy’s kombi in my kortbroeks & plakkies feeling like a very kief bloke.

“Good morning, everyone,” I said, feeling very fresh and rested with no Babalas around.  I had skipped my night class at Stomme Jonge that evening and spent my time writing postcards to send home. I had to tell my friends what I had discovered.  I mean ostriches swimming in the sea…who knew?  It was spectacular…but that’s another story for later.

“Where to today I asked?”, looking towards the two kombi-bosses Judy & Kim.  

Judy states, “This day was to be a special journey to the edge of Africa, to a place called the Cape of Good Hope where two oceans meet”.  Now that’s a pretty big introduction I thought to myself and it sounded “lekker”. 

Then Kim says, “It is important to us that you see South Africa as we do, proud of our country and who we are.  We want you to tell all your friends back in America what a special country we live in”.    I will always remember this statement.  It had a profound effect then, just as it does today some 30 years later.

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

Classic Kombi on a Chapman’s Peak drive

“It’s a bit early for that don’t ya think”, I say in somewhat of a questioning statement as I look over to Greg who has a mischievous grin on his face.   

“Howz’it”, Greg says looking back.  “Oh that’s just some Kombi-chenin for the journey ahead,” he says with a grin.

Kombi-Chenin I think to myself…is that like some other new wine, I thought to myself.  Then…the light switched on in my head and I sheepishly looked back and Greg grinned and I said, “That’s funny, “Kombi-Chenin”…that should be the actual wine brand.

Then Judy says, “And we have proper padkos, so don’t worry”.

“Padkos”, I state in a questioning tone.  “Road food my dear, you yanks really need to up your Afrikaans game,” Judy says.

Ten days earlier Kevin & Greg had taken me diving, almost drowning on Queens Beach, so as we drove down Beach Road in Seapoint I started to recognize the area and was thinking, “Not this again”. The Kombi took a hard left up Queens Road, went around the traffic circle, and turned right on Victoria Road.

“Oh wow”, I thought.  “I could live here”, I said to myself.

The remarkable engineering in the homes on the cliffs of Cape Town’s Atlantic Seaboard is not what an American thinks they will see on their way to Africa.  My friend Joe Slovo never told me about this on the plane.

“Cheers”, Greg says, handing me a glass of Kombi-Chenin.  

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

I was not excited at first as I recall seeing that glass of wine, but today I cannot recall a better memory than sharing Kombi-Chenin with four South Africans who would become my best friends in life.  Of course, our trusty pilot for the day Kevin did not have any Kombi-Chenin, but I do remember him talking to Greg about wanting some of the “bull-tongue”.  

I thought to myself, bull’s tongue.  That sounded horrible, but that’s yet another story.

As the Kombi lurched along Victoria Road my mind was continually blown.  

Clifton & Camp’s Bay were not on TV in America.  No one would believe me.  It was perspective-crushing, exciting, and humbling to see the stunning architecture and what I thought might be the world’s best coastline. Never mind the fact that I almost drowned 10 days earlier and had become a joke on Queens Beach in the water-filled wet suit.

I just remember being happy.  Looking back, perhaps the Kombi-Chenin was helpful in that.

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

Judy then says, “We are not even to Chapman’s Peak yet, and that is the best part.”

“It gets better than this?” I thought to myself.

Well, it did.  It was without question the best drive of my life.  The best memories, the best laughter, the best views, the best internal discoveries of what was important to me, and the best conversations with Kim & Judy and Kevin & Greg were foundational in shaping who I am today.   They will understand and know what I mean and that’s really all I can say about that.

About 90 minutes later, after at least two bottles of Kombi-Chenin between us, Judy says. “OK, Mr. America …we are here”.

Kevin had turned the Kombi up towards an entry gate of some kind.  I look out and see a sign that says, “Cape of Good Hope & Cape Point”.   

We stopped at what appeared to be a guard’s house of some sort with someone standing at a window. 

“Goeie More mevrou, Welcome to Cape Point, how many of you are there today, he asked.”

“Vier and one Yankie”, Judy says.  “Is the lighthouse open today and is it clear?” Judy asks. “These Yanks are only fair-weather folks…and the wind? Is the doctor blowing today because we don’t want our American friend blowing away” she says.

“All fine today mevrou”, he says.

By this time the Kombi-chenin has allowed me to discover my kombi cockiness and I say, “Guys I have seen a lighthouse before and a little wind is no big deal.”  I remember Kim looking directly at me and asking, “Do all Americans talk such a big game, or is it just you?  That stopped me in my tracks so to say. 

We are showing you our country.  A country we love dearly you knob. A country we are proud of and want you to understand and appreciate.

She was not mad at me, perhaps a bit put off by my kak praat, but she was mostly passionate and proud implying that she had expectations of her new American friend. 

As Kevin parks the kombi he looks at me and says, “Now let’s go see where two oceans meet.”

The walk up to the lighthouse was awe-inspiring.  Perhaps a bit challenging after the Kombi-Chenin which had given the four of us the giggles which poor Kevin tolerated.

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

As we walked up to the beginning of the pathway towards the lighthouse, we all watched in awe quite frankly as the bus driver maneuvered a huge tour bus into the parking lot.  Greg then chirped, “In South Africa, we call that a big taxi”.

When this big taxi’s door opened, out stepped about 60 Asian tourists, each seemed to carry a bigger camera than the next.

Twenty-five minutes later, after navigating a crowd of impressive telephoto lenses, we reached the Cape Point Lighthouse… “where two oceans meet” they say:  the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean. 

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

Standing atop Cape Point with my new friends was the highlight thus far of my time in South Africa.  The profound geographical beauty was humbling, as were these four individuals who had taken so much time and made such a big effort to introduce me to their country and to make me feel so welcome.  

It was certainly the beginning of the rest of my life.

As we peer out into the Atlantic, Kim points and says, ‘A whale! Can you see it?’ Sure enough, you could clearly see the whale surfacing and blowing large plumes of air and seawater.  Seeing your first whale is something you never forget, but seeing that from the top of Cape Point, well, that is a forever memory.

That was an iconic moment that will never fade for me.  Seeing my first whale from the southernmost point of Africa where two oceans meet.

My excitement at seeing this caught the attention of several Asian tourists who had also walked up the hiking path to the Old Cape Point Lighthouse.  Suddenly all their camera lenses were aimed towards the direction Kim was pointing.  Kim was trying to tell our new friends that it was a whale.

Cape Point, A Whale, & The Best Kombi Ride Ever

“Whale….?” they said with inquisitive confused looks amongst themselves, clearly not understanding Kim.

I then turned to the group and said as I pointed towards the whale, “Big Sushi.”

“Big Sushi”, they repeated and moments later there was nothing but smiles and happy nodding heads with everyone saying, “ya ya Big Sushi”.

 

FAQs about Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope

 

Q: What is so special about Cape Point?

Ah, Cape Point—the tip of the Cape Peninsula where two oceans meet. Imagine standing on a windswept cliff, the Atlantic and Indian Oceans seemingly colliding in an endless dance of waves. It’s more than a place; it’s a memory waiting to happen. The lighthouse, perched high above the sea, is a beacon of South Africa’s natural beauty, and the view? Kief, as the locals would say.

 

Q: Is the Cape of Good Hope the same as Cape Point?

Not exactly, my friend! They’re like cousins in the family of South African landmarks. The Cape of Good Hope, famously misinterpreted as the southernmost point of Africa, is a stone’s throw from Cape Point. Both spots offer breathtaking views, wild seas, and the chance to feel very small in the grandness of it all.

 

Q: What should I bring for a visit to Cape Point?

If you’re doing it right, bring a sense of adventure, a comfy pair of takkies (sneakers), and maybe a bottle of Kombi-Chenin—South African “road trip wine,” if you will as long as the designated driver doesn’t drink and can handle your after drink vibes. You’ll want a camera to capture those cliffs, too, but no photo will ever do justice to the real thing.

 

Q: What is padkos, and why is it important?

Ah, padkos—Afrikaans for “road food.” Think of it as the snack stash that fuels your journey. From (“bull-tongue”) biltong to crackers, it’s as essential as gasoline in the kombi. Without padkos, how would you survive the drive to the Cape of Good Hope? Judy swears by it, and after one trip, you’ll see why.

 

Q: How long does it take to explore Cape Point?

That depends on how many stops you make for Kombi-Chenin refills! Realistically, set aside a good half-day to walk to the lighthouse, breathe in the salty sea air, and maybe spot a Big Sushi moment (that’s whale-watching, by the way). You’ll want to linger—it’s not a place to rush.

 

Q: Can you really see two oceans meet at Cape Point?

Absolutely—or at least it feels that way. The Atlantic and Indian Oceans merge somewhere off the coast, and while you can’t see an exact line, the crashing waves and shifting blues are mesmerizing. It’s nature’s own piece of art, framed by the dramatic cliffs of the Cape.

 

Q: Why do locals love Cape Point so much?

Cape Point isn’t just a destination; it’s a slice of home. For many South Africans, it embodies pride, history, and a connection to nature. As Kim once told me, “You have to see our country through our eyes—geographically stunning and unforgettable.” That’s Cape Point for you.

 

Q: What’s the best way to get to Cape Point?

In a kombi, of course! Preferably with good friends, lots of laughter, and a bottle (or two) of Kombi-Chenin. The drive along the Cape Peninsula is as much a part of the adventure as the destination itself, with stops at Clifton, Camps Bay, and Chapman’s Peak along the way.

 

Q: What’s the food like near Cape Point?

While there are cafes nearby, nothing beats packing your own padkos. Think biltong, sandwiches, and maybe a few rusks for the road. Pair it with a glass of wine and a whale sighting, and you’ve got the makings of a perfect day.